Mealworm Farm

MEALWORM FARM

Once you read through 2015, you do not have to go any further to get the most valuable information, plus, I have updated 2015 with any new findings from my experience.  From 2016 to current date, is personal notes which may have no relevance or be confusing in their detail.

Topics in this page:
Short Explaination of Drawer System
Glossary of Terms
Quick Start Guide
My Journal, Part 1:  Nov. 1-Dec. 29, 2015  Set-up, Modify and Implement System
My Journal, Part 2:  Jan. 6, 2016-Jan. 7, 2017, Routine care and statistics
My Journal, Part 3:  Jan. 7, 2017 - Jan. 11, 2018,  Routine care and statistics
The Ugly Truth About Mealworm Farming

Short Explanation of Drawer System

Top Drawer = Beetle Drawer with mesh bottom.  Beetles are not removed from the drawer, unless dead (and not even then for the most part).
Second  and subsequent drawers = Larvae Drawers with solid bottom.  Larvae remain in the same drawer until they are sifted at maturity for sell, use, or breeding.

I.  The Beetle Drawer always remains at the top position. 
II.  The 2nd drawer (under the Beetle Drawer) is numbered and/or dated with a dry erase marker. The number/date on the drawer reflects the time frame the drawer is under the beetles, and will serve to gauge age and size of larvae.  
III.  After 2-4 weeks (recommended), the 2nd drawer is moved and a fresh drawer replaces it, which is then numbered and/or dated.
IV.  It doesn't matter what position the Larvae Drawers are in after it leaves its position under the Beetle Drawer since each drawer is numbered sequentially and/or dated.
V.  Once your "oldest" or most mature Larvae Drawer is empty, the number/date can be wiped off, and after cleaning and preparing, the drawer is ready to return to the system for use under the Beetle Drawer again.

[See also, the post on this blog, Plastic Canvas Mealworm System.]

Glossary of Terms
Alien - a pupa
Beetle - A darkling beetle, scientific name, Tenebrio molitor
Beetle Drawer (BD) - The drawer in the unit, which contains the beetles, and has a screen/mesh bottom.
Exoskeleton - The outer shell, remnants of each molting episode during the larval stage.
Frass - waste product of larvae and beetles
Larvae - The larval form of the mealworm beetle.
Larvae Drawer (LD) - A drawer or multiple drawers in the unit, which contain mealworm larvae of various ages/sizes.
Mealworm - An insect, the larval form of the mealworm beetle.
Nursery/Larvae Drawer (N/LD) - A drawer in the unit, which is placed under the Beetle Drawer, and contains hatchling larvae, or eggs, which have fallen from the Beetle Drawer.
Pupa - one dormant mealworm
Pupae - More than one mealworm in its dormant stage in the life cycle of the beetle.
Pupae Container / Pupae Bin -  A plastic storage or food container, in which pupae are placed until they morph into beetles.
Storage Bin - Plastic box with lid; can be used for mealworms in various stages of the lifecycle or beetles as needed for housing.
Substrate - Bedding and food source of mealworms.  

Quick Start Guide
Starting a Mealworm Farm from scratch is not a complicated process.  I have developed this Quick Start Guide describing the method I use, drawer units with a 7 mesh plastic canvas Beetle Drawer. My way is not the only method used in mealworm farming, but, it suits my need and lifestyle. 

1.  Order live mealworms.  No less than 1000.
2.  Purchase a 3-tier storage unit with 3 translucent drawers, minimum. [See also #5]
3.  Purchase substrate and moisture source. I recommend wheat bran for the larvae drawers and old fashioned oats for the beetle drawer, as well as baby carrots (rinse and dry).  Do not use corn meal mix.  Important:  Bake all substrate in 200F degree oven for one hour or until the internal temperature reaches 140 for 10 minutes.  This will kill grain mites, if any, or other pests.  After cooling, freeze any substrate you are not immediately using. I use 2.5# cornmeal per drawer (or 1.5" of wheat bran) and approx. 1.5-2" of oatmeal in the Beetle Drawer.
4.  Items needed to prepare drawers:  plastic canvas, HOT glue gun/glue sticks or the recommended silicone caulk, sticky duct tape (optional), petroleum jelly or vegetable oil, ruler, dry erase marker.  [See Nov, 15, 2015:  Installation of Metal Screen Mesh by Mike Harmon.  However, I recommend the plastic canvas, 7 holes per inch, 49 per square inch!]
5.  Tools required:  jig saw, tin snips or utility knife, electric drill with small bit.
6.  Prepare two of the three drawers, Larvae Drawers, in this way.
a.  Adhere two rows of duct tape onto the lower portion of the outside of each drawer, completely around, optional.
b.  Drill holes in each drawer, approx. 1.5 inches down from the top edge, 3 holes per side, optional.  Ventilation is important, but, drawers are often ventilated without this step. 
c.  Put a thin coat of petroleum jelly or vegetable oil around each hole, inside and out, and along the top rim going, 1” down inside the drawer.  Vegetable oil is recommended.
7.  Prepare one drawer, the Beetle Drawer, in this way:
a.  Do steps 6a. and 6b.
Install canvas or mesh bottom: 
b.  Take a ruler and draw a line around the entire bottom with a dry erase marker, no less than 1/2 inch from the sides.  Put the drawer back in the unit and see if the drawn line is inside the rim of the unit’s frame.  If it is not, you can wipe out the line and adjust as needed.  This is important because you want the eggs or hatchlings to fall into the drawer below, not to be trapped on the frame.
c.  Drill a hole or two adjoining holes on the line you have drawn.  Insert the blade of the jigsaw into the holes and cut along the lines, or do so with utility knife or tin snips. 
d.  With scissors, cut a piece of plastic canvas, larger than the hole by 1/2” minimum, or snugly to the side walls and back of the drawer, especially if you are using caulk/sealant.
e. Hot glue method:  Working from the inside, tack down the corners of the screen with hot glue, then work your way around slowly.  Use a lot of  hot glue, press to seal the edges, top and bottom.  [Note:  The hot glue or caulk/sealant goes on the inside and the screen goes on top of the glue.] Do NOT use a low temp glue gun; it will not bond correctly.  You may use a hot glue gun with multi-temp glue sticks.                              Caulk method (recommended):  Put a line of caulk completely around the cut out, then press the plastic canvas into the sealant.  Smooth out and/or remove excess caulk.  Allow to dry completely or overnight.  Caulk should be to the edges of the canvas. Use painters tape to assure no mess on drawer sides, if you are a neat freak like me!                       Aluminum tape method:  Use aluminum duct tape to hold screen mesh down on the beetle side, then hot glue from the bottom side.  Wear gloves as aluminum duct tape can cut your skin badly.  
f.  Now do step 6c.
8.  When your mealies arrive, they go in a Larvae Drawer prepared in this way: 
a.  Pour 1" up to 2" of substrate in the drawer.  I use 2.5# cornmeal per drawer.  Put a line of petroleum jelly or vegetable oil 1.5" above the substrate, about two-four inches wide around the drawer on the inside.  [Note:  The wider the band of oil the better for mite control or prevention.]  I recommend any vegetable oil, as it is easier to wash off later than petroleum jelly.
b.  Unpack your mealworms into the drawer.
c.  Wash baby carrots, pat dry and place directly on the top of the substrate.  With proper ventilation, mold should not be a problem, or, you can place any vegetables you use on a piece of newsprint, brown coffee filter, or brown paper.  Add more veggies as they dry up. You may also use a white potato, sliced in half, skin side down.

Congratulations on starting your mealworm farm!  Now, you can wait for pupae and read up on beetles and such!.  If you have any questions, please use the comment section.

Note:  Wheat bran as a substrate is better for growth of larvae than plain yellow cornmeal.  Also, beetles moved from drawer to drawer will yield higher production numbers.  I learned these things through experience!

Valuable information on starting a mealworm farm: http://www.sialis.org/raisingmealworms.htm

See Greg Offer's bin in bin system on February 24, 2016.


FASCINATING FACT:
Beetles will dig as far as 2 inches. You can fit 1000 beetles comfortably in one square foot.  [3/2/16:  Joseph Webb IV said, "I keep it to about 7 per sq inch."]

MEALWORM FARM JOURNAL, Part 1

November 5, 2015
I had a Show and Tell with my grand-boys and a container of mealworms I bought at a pet supply store.  I ordered 1000 mealworms a few days previous, but, I wanted to get to know mealworms before I got into "big time" farming!  At this time, these pet store larvae don't look so good.

November 6, 2015
To prepare for the arrival of the order, I purchased a 3-tier, plastic storage drawer unit and aluminum mesh screen for my system. {Later changed to 7 mesh plastic canvas.}  I drilled out ventilation holes.  I cut out the bottom of one drawer, and securely glued the piece of mesh in with hot glue.  [See #7 in Quick Start above.]  NOTE:  Make sure not to cut out too much of the drawer bottom.  Using a ruler, mark a square around the bottom using a dry erase marker, no less than 1/2".  Check the line with the edges of the inside of the unit. Adjust lines as needed.  Cut on the line with a utility knife, tin snips, or jig saw. This will be my Beetle Drawer.  For those who wonder what the mesh is for, microscopic larvae burrow down through the substrate and drop through the screen into the Nursery/Larvae Drawer below. Eggs may also fall through. 
The screen mesh drawer
{The cross piece was later removed. and is not recommended!}
November 15, 2015  [Updated 12/13/16]  Installation of metal screen mesh:  
“Any 100% silicone without mold resistant chemicals will work fine with animals. You can also use Krylon fusion spray paint if you want to black out the sides. Just make sure to let everything dry well. I used aluminum duct tape to hold [screen mesh] down then hot glue from the other side. The duct tape is metal and they will not eat it, and it also helps cover the sides of the metal mesh I used so it's not going to poke me.  Just make sure its aluminum duct tape, but, be careful to use gloves as it can cut you very bad”.  -Mike Harmon

Update, 6/14/2016: 
I removed the metal screen and replaced with 7 mesh plastic canvas.   The reason I switched was due to the amount of small to large worms I had in the Beetle Drawer.  Evidently, some hatchlings did not bore through the metal screen before they got too large to do so.  The holes on the black plastic are significantly larger, but, not large enough for the beetles to pass through.  11/10/16:  Productivity results in subsequent drawers since changing from metal screen to plastic canvas mesh did not change, but, I no longer find larvae of any size in the beetle drawer.  Success!] 
The 7 mesh plastic canvas drawers:
One for the beetles to live on, one for sort/sift
  
I went around the Larvae Drawers [below] with 2 rows of black duct tape, about 4 inches for light control. Again, I read complete darkness is not necessary or optimal. 
In the photo above, I haven't taped one drawer yet.  I have used the optional castors since being off the floor might prevent ant or mice invasions, plus, tile floor is cold in the winter and cold mealies don't grow as fast!  Later, I decided tape for light control was not necessary for the rooms I was putting mealworms in, which had no windows!  I have been removing the tape at my convenience; now I can see frass build-up or need to add more food or drink!


Update, 7/21/17:
Current set-up has grown to four 3-drawer units, two bins, and the Pupae Hotel (see 7/20/17).

Later expansion to The Worman Cave with plans to double worm farm size!
See the post, The Worman Cave, on this blog for details!
November 7, 2015
Mealworms arrived in a ventilated box, inside a cloth bag with crumpled newspaper.  A few dead ones, but, the live insects feel active in my hand as I move them over to their new home. For substrate in the larvae drawers, I used old-fashioned oats, purchased at the grocery store in the cereal isle.   [Update, March 22, 2016  I am now using plain, yellow cornmeal in the Nursery Larvae Drawer, found in the baking isle.]  A tall, plastic cup, half full of water, was placed in each drawer, to provide humidity.  I later removed the cup because the Larvae Drawers needed no further humidity.  On top of the substrate, in each drawer, just before I added the mealworms, I pushed in a carrot and 2 halves of a white potato.  I put approx. 500 mealies in each drawer.  Yes, I could have put them all in one drawer, but, use 2" of substrate if you do!  On top of veggies and mealies, I laid 4 layers of brown paper sack, sized about 9x11 inches. [Skip this step for new set-up.  As the mealworms mature, for feeding, the largest mealworms crawl between the layers, making it easy to collect them.]  For additional nutrition, I pulsed until fine in the food processor about 1.5 cups chicken layer pellets.  Then, I put a few teaspoons in each drawer as larvae feed.  I later added finely ground egg shell with the chicken feed because of the calcium content.  My mealies really like this feed mix and I also feed this to the beetles.  NOTE: Check any animal feed label for Diatomaceous Earth aka diatoms aka silica, which will kill your mealworms!  Also, bake any grains or feed for 1 hour at 200 degrees before adding to your mealworm farm.
I put a coat of petroleum jelly on the outside rim of each drawer.  I read this keeps mites out or stops ant trails.  Seemed an easy thing to do whatever the case. I put some around each hole in the drawers, too.  The downside is that every time I open the drawer, I get petroleum jelly on my hands.  Ah, well, I just rub it in and, of course, wash my hands after handling mealworms or the drawers!  I later switched to canola oil, which makes washing the drawers after use much easier!

November 12, 2015
My grandson, Tucker, found the first pupa!  The next day, I found three more.  This is fun! I put the pupae into a plastic container aka Pupae Container, so they won't be cannibalized by the larvae.   I will keep an eye on the pupae for beetles to emerge.  
November 15, 2015
I've found more pupae.  Their color blends in with the substrate, so, I'm wearing my reader glasses to aid in seeing them!  [Edited 12/10:  "Stirring the substrate when looking for pupae helps distribute moisture", a tip from another Mealworm Farmer, leads to a higher percentage of dead larvae and pupae and causes more deformed beetles.  So, don't stir the substrate!]  I am watching the carrots and celery daily, realizing it has to go at the first sign of mold.  [If the substrate molds, there is not enough ventilation.]
I don't know why I would every need to know this, but,
it is an interesting fact!
November 19, 2015
Finding more pupae every day  I put a damp paper towel over the pupae container.  [Edited 12/10/16:  "I heard they don't morph as well without some moisture like that"  may or may not be correct.  However, IF there is substrate in the Pupae Container, it will mold if it gets too damp, so, don't put substrate in the Pupae Container.]  See Nov. 29 entry for details on the new Pupae Bin.  Note:  I later put Pupae in a small container, 100 per container, with a wet, not soggy, cotton ball in the middle of the pupae, and loosely covering the container with its lid - pictured below in update.

November 22, 2015
Ten days after the first pupa was discovered, I found two beetles in the pupae container.  I am so excited!  Every day there will be more beetles, which means, the beetle breeding and nursery/larvae drawers are soon to be occupied!

November 24, 2015  
In the last 12 days, I have a pretty good pile of pupae, so, I combined the two Larvae Drawers into one so the Beetle Drawer and Nursery/Larvae Drawer are available as more beetles emerge.  I believe every day or two I will be adding beetles with as much frequency as I added pupae.  I hired my grandson, Tucker, the same who seems the most interested in these insects (See Nov. 5 and Nov. 12), to help me combine the larvae drawers, pick out dead worms, etc.  I paid him with mozzerella cheese sticks from Sonic!

November 29, 2015
Time to get the Beetle Drawer and Nursery/Larvae Drawer ready for the next phase in my Mealworm Farm.  But, first, the pupae need their own space!
The Pupae Bin a plastic storage box with holes around the top about 1.5 inches down. The plastic cup with water provides humidity / moisture.  Other items in this box:  An oat box lid used in transferring beetles, a plastic bowl, which holds half-morphed, questionable and/or deformed beetles or larvae until I determine their fate, and a plastic baby spoon, which I use to transfer the beetles to the beetle drawer.  I find if they flip on their backs, they don't crawl out of the spoon before I get them into the Beetle Drawer!  A lid, not pictured, covered this Pupae Bin.

Update:  12/6/2016
Current Pupae Bin and covered containers..  Bay leaves deter mites?
The above unlidded Pupae Bin contains three recycled, loosely covered plastic containers. Each one holds 100-125 pupae with a wet (not soggy) cotton ball in the center of each container to increase humidity.  The date, with a dry erase marker, reflects when each container was started, and also indicates the most mature pupae, which will be morphing into beetles first.  No substrate/bedding or vegetable is needed.  The beetles are removed to the Beetle Drawer as needed.

Update 7/18/17:
The above Pupae Hotel will replace the set-up above to house pupae until they morph into beetles.  I can still use a dry erase marker to put the date on each "condo".  These little drawers fit in well with my personality!  They can fit by single layer in the red tray.
Beetles at different maturity are indicated by color.
Photo by Scott Crothers
Time to put the beetles in the Beetle Drawer, the top drawer of my Mealworm Farm system.  I put a layer of substrate oats, with some cardboard tubes (cut in half), carrots and celery on top.  I counted the beetles as I transferred them to their new home.  To my surprise, I already had 28 beetles!  [Edited 2/11/16:  The tubes, if cut in half, will flatten over time, so, don't cut them in half.  These tubes increases "floor space", therefore, provides for more beetles per drawer.]   
  Too much moisture can attract mites, so I now limit carrots to 5-6 in the Beetle Drawer,
and 2-4 in the larvae drawers, depending on how many beetles and larvae are in the drawers.
I am happy to be getting about 6-8 beetles a day from the Pupae Box, all the while adding pupae from the Larvae Drawer, up to 40 a day!  I decided to keep a running count of beetles transferred from the Pupae Bin.  How else am I going to know what percentage of those 1000 mealies made it to beetles?   The Nursery/Larvae Drawer (#2 in the 3-drawer farm system, not pictured) has an oat substrate and a few carrots like the one above.  It is ready for baby larvae and/or eggs to drop through the Beetle Drawer's mesh above, whenever the Beetles start breeding soon.  I will have tiny larvae over time.  Note:  I later switched to cornmeal in the larvae drawers, which is easy to sift when it is time to use or sell mature larvae.
Unfortunately, stuff happens in the life-cycle of the mealworm, such as death and deformities.
December 8, 2015
Worms and pupae turn black in death, pupae fail to morph into beetles, beetles emerge with deformed wings or fail to completely emerge.  This can occur for a lot of reasons, shock from shipment/adjusting to a new environment, wrong or irregular humidity or temperature, or cannibalism.  I obsessively track the count of Live Beetles vs Dead Larvae and Pupae/Deformed Beetles, the latter being fed to the chickens after their untimely demise.  As of today, 4:25 p.m. CT, I have 238 Live Beetles in the Beetle Drawer and 248 Dead/Deformed for the chickens.  At this rate, I will have 50% to live and breed, if indeed my order contained 1000 larvae (which, I am wondering if it did because it doesn't look like 500 worms are left!)  I saw a few Beetles mating, so, I know eggs and tiny larvae are to follow.   Note:  I later learned that stirring the substrate was the cause of this high death/deformity rate.  See next entry!
Mating beetles.  Photo by Annie Sears
December 9, 2015
I made a few edits to the above journal, based on my experience thus far.  First, I don't stir the substrate to look for pupae.  Since I stopped doing this, I no longer have pupae which have not fully shed their larvae/worm exoskeleton. They simply come to the top to pupate cleanly.  Second, celery is enjoyed by the beetles, but, I no longer use it in the larvae drawers due to excess moisture on the substrate.  Third,  I don't put substrate in the Pupae Container, as it molds due to the needed moisture for pupae to morph.  If I have to leave for a few days and cannot check the pupae for emerging beetles, I will add a moisture source to prevent cannibalism to the helpless pupae.  


December 10, 2015
After observing a beetle laying eggs on the cardboard tube, I recalled another Farmer, who provided an Egg Cloth.  This could be a small square of damp cheesecloth or t-shirt.  I used a green t-shirt, as it gets white "dust" on it, a sign to replace with fresh.    I placed several small squares of Egg Cloth in the Beetle Drawer.  Any water source, such as celery or carrots, which are completely dried up is placed in the Larvae/Nursery Drawer because beetles will lay eggs on them, so I have read!  Note:  I no longer use egg clothes and have found that they don't make a difference in production numbers that I can tell, and hold excess moisture, which may have led to my first mite infestation!  See Grain Mite Battle page on this blog if you discover mites in your colony!
December 18, 2015
The farm has grown to 481 beetles and counting.  Since the December 9 post to this page, I have started a new Fourth/Final Pupae Container, which currently holds 31 pupae (and counting).  The original First Container from Nov. 29 is empty as of last night, and the Second Pupae Container, which had an estimated 150 pupae, is now producing beetles. The Third Pupae Container holds 146 pupae.  Whether or not having pupae in a single layer container is the best method for producing healthy beetles is unknown, but, so far, I have not had one deformed beetle since I keep them this way.  But, I think the real secret is that I no longer disturb the Larvae Drawer except to add carrots, food, or remove pupae (with a plastic spoon).  Perhaps humidity and temperature are just right?  Whose to say, but, I like how easy it is to find and transfer the new beetles from the single layer Pupae Container into the Beetle Drawer and I like finding slick, white pupae in the Larvae Drawer, right on top of the substrate..

Below is another picture of the Pupae Bin, which has 3 Pupae Containers.  Center top-Second Container, Right-Third Container, Left-Fourth/Final Container 

December 21, 2015
Last night, I picked out the remaining larvae [-50]  and put them in a small container, like the Pupae Container in the photo above.  I then sifted the oat substrate* and put the "clean" substrate in a labeled, zip-lock bag and put it in the freezer (after putting a few handfuls in both the Beetle Drawer and Nursery/Larvae Drawer along with fresh carrots).  I remove the dried up carrots and/or celery from the Beetle Drawer and put it into the N/L Drawer because the beetles do lay eggs on them, I read.  I also put the Egg Cloth in the N/LD after a few days of being in the Beetle Drawer, and put new pieces of damp cloth in the Beetle Drawer.  This cycle is repeated often over the days and weeks to follow.

*After I sift the used oat substrate, I took a hair dryer and blew over it, which removed exoskeletons.  They fly everywhere along with bits of oat dust.   Do this outside, of course! Beware, the filter on your hair dryer will have to be cleaned, and it may never be the same.  Update:  An easy method to remove exoskeletons is to use static, as with a balloon rubbed on one's hair or shirt!  Plastic bags will also conduct static.  Exoskeletons will be attracted to static.

December 22, 2015
As of this morning, I have 680 beetles.  I have been tracking beetle count since 11/29 from 30 beetles.  I wonder when I am able to visibly see larvae hatched from my farm.  It has been 24 days minimum having beetles, so, it is helpful to know where I might be in the life-cycle. 
Stage
Time*
Egg Incubation
4-19 days (usually 4-7). Another source says 20-40 days
Larva
10 weeks. Visible after about a week
Pupa
6-18 (18-24?) days
Beetle and Egg Laying
8-12 weeks (followed by death). Egg laying starts 4-19 days (average 12) after emergence
* time depends on temperature, relative humidity, food, etc. Different sources report different time frames.

Here was above farmer's experience at room temperature:
"Beetles lay eggs 9-20 days after emergence.  Females lay 275 eggs, up to 40 per day. Egg incubation is 4-19 days with 12 being average.  Larvae will be about 1/2 inch long in 4-6 weeks after hatching.  For each 20 beetles, you should get about 350 adult mealworms in 200 days."

Update (7/11/16) - Beetles may live up to 5 months, but, they are only productive the first two months.

December 28, 2015
775 beetles, 25 larvae left, and approx. 50 pupae ready to  morph.  The End is coming to the mealworms of my original purchase, which arrived Nov. 2.  The percentage of mealies to beetles has increased significantly since Dec. 8.

I moved the Nursery/Larvae Drawer (second level) to the 3rd level, now the Larvae Drawer. The Larvae Drawer has no activity yet, as far as tiny larvae I can see.  I will check in another week.  Seeing with my own eyes there are little mealies, my first generation, will be very exciting!  This is also the only way to prove the mesh screen filter is working or the egg clothes or that dried up carrots may have had eggs laid on them.  I'm just operating on faith so far, and the experience of others.  Fresh substrate was put in the new NLD with two baby carrots and placed under the Beetle Drawer, ready to receive whatever drops through the mesh the next month.
 Fresh, in this case, means from the freezer bag of Dec. 21.

December 29, 2015:  I ended the year with 804 beetles added.

Since I have beetles, I have eggs and larvae!  In four to six weeks, the substrate will move and I can visibly see tiny larvae!  
Photo credit, Ann Wilson
TOTAL NUMBER OD DRAWERS IN 2015 - 3 - The beginning!

Blog Readers:  STOP READING?  From this point forward, this page's journal records my experience with shifting drawers and setting up other drawer units.  If you get the basic premise of the drawer system, you do not have to read any further, except the entry on January 16 2016, explains the Frass Tray and Feeder Drawer.  [Update:  The Feeder Drawer's name was changed to the Sift/Sort Drawer.  A post on this blog, Plastic Canvas Mealworm System, explains the Sift/Sort Drawer.  The Frass Tray is also explained on that post.]  Otherwise, updates to the above journal has been made.  Also, see The Worman Cave post, as well as Superworm Farm page, if you want to follow my farms' expansion from 8/1/2017 to the move from the utility room to the basement and addition of superworms, and other growth.  Also, a new page added 12/14/17, Pupae and Pupae-to-Beetle Management, explains my system for storing and maintaining pupae in the "Pupae Hotel" drawers or containers through metamorphosis.

MEALWORM FARM JOURNAL, Part 2
January 6, 2016
Everything has slowed down, and even days where no activity can be seen in the Mealworm Farm, as far as increases and decreases are concerned.  Currently, the counts are:   Beetles-818, Larvae-19, Pupae-14.  I took a magnifying glass and had a look around in the substrate of the Larvae Drawer.  It has been 9 days since I moved this drawer down from second to third drawer in the unit.  I finally spotted one very tiny larvae; it was unmistakable! My first generation larvae!  I wonder how long it will take me to see them with my naked eye, with 150 magnification reading glasses, that is!

January 12, 2016
Beetle count, 828.  Since I stopped stirring the substrate (Dec. 9, 2015), my larvae/pupae to beetle ration increased to 95%.  A lesson learned through testing and results.  Today, I am moving The First NLD or Current Drawer 3 into Storage Bin 1, and moving the current NLD or 2nd Drawer to the 3rd position in the unit.  I will begin a new Nursery/Larvae Drawer at position 2.  This addition of storage bins may be unnecessary, but, it has been advised by other mealworm farmers, so, I am going to see how it works for me.  Being the purpose of this journal is to gauge my experience whether success or failure, one does not know until a method is tested!  Storage Bin 1 has a bottom surface area of 9x14 inches and a lid. The process to prepare the drawer for larvae is the same as with all drawers detailed on Nov.2.

Note to self:  Beetle Drawer started Nov. 29, which means Storage Bin 1 contains egg/larve from Nov. 29 through Dec. 28, covering 30-785 beetles morphed up to that date. [Also, probably less than 2T. from the NLD drawer was added to the bin around Jan. 9. This will account for any size difference in larvae in Storage Bin 1.  [NOTE:  On Feb. 9, I discovered there is a size difference in this bin due to this mistake!]

January 16, 2016:
I bought another 3-tier unit and prepared it like the first one.  This unit has a "self-cleaning" Feeder Drawer with a screen mesh bottom (like the Beetle Drawer), which allows the frass to drop through to the tray below, thus the name Frass Tray!  

[Update 6/10/16:  Empty the Frass Tray into a holding container as small mealworms will make it through the metal screen mesh.]

[Update:  11/10/2016:  I replaced the metal screen mesh in the Feeder Drawer with black, 7 mesh, plastic canvas.  The larger holes of the plastic canvas allows smallest mealworms to fall through and the remaining larger worms are sold, fed, and/or put in a grow-out container to "gut-load" or to pupate.]  See post, Plastic Canvas Mealworm System.

January 19, 2016:  
I checked Drawer 3 for the first time since moving it down (Dec. 28) from the Nursery position on Jan. 12.  With a magnifying glass, I could see tiny mealworms and there seemed to be very many more than in Storage Bin 1.  Time will tell!  


January 26, 2016:
I moved the last beetle from the Pupae Container.  Only a few mealworms remain from the original order in a small, plastic container.  I prepared a new N/LD Drawer and placed this under the beetles.  I moved each of the other drawers down one space.  I numbered each drawer and note the dates it was under the Beetle Drawer.  I don't know why I shifted the drawers; it really makes no difference where they are in the unit as long as they are numbered and/or dated!  Also, I totally numbered my backwards, duh me!

January 29, 2016:
One lone pupa in a Pupae Container, and, 3 larvae remaining.  I should just feed those to the chickens and be done with it.  Checked out the Larvae Drawers.  Amazing! Microscopic larvae, tiny larvae, larger tiny larvae...very interesting.

February 6, 2016:
One month since I saw the first tiny larvae.

February 7, 2016:
Lone pupae from Jan. 29 is now a beetle!  Joining the colony in the Beetle Drawer!  830 beetles from the original order of 1000.

February 9, 2016:  
I started a new Nursery/Larvae Drawer, #5.  I put the larvae from Storage Bin 1 into the Feeder Drawer. Ugh, some smaller worms dropped through the Feeder/Breeder Drawer's mesh into the Frass Tray.  This is from the 2T. I added on Jan. 9. (See Notes to Self on Jan. 12 entry.)  I will add these fallen victims to NLD #3 by picking them out with a spoon.  I put a light layer of wheat flour and a few carrots to the Frass Tray so these babies won't dehydrate and starve during this holding period.  I hope it doesn't traumatize them.  This experience has taught me what size the larvae must be for the mesh-bottom of the Feeder Drawer to work!

February 24, 2016
Greg Offer's System [Photographs used by permission]
"Double stacked beetle bin and nursery, whole oatmeal in the beetle bin at the top, screened bottom with pet proof window screen from Walmart, cornmeal in the bottom nursery, eggs fall through, no escapees, very clean set up."





March 7, 2016:
45 dead beetles removed and fed to chickens.  Original colony will continue to age out and die but this was the first time I noticed significant numbers.  I sorted out 1100 mealworms from my first generation larvae for Breeders and put them in a bin aka Breeder Bin. [Set-up is same as Pupae Bin on Nov. 29]  I found 5 pupae, but, one looks dried up and they were small.  Yet, my first generation pupae!  I put them in a Pupae Container.  All the frass from the screen mesh, and all spent veggies, used cloth, tubes or paper used in the farm was also put in a bin aka Waste Bin along with some fresh carrots on top of newsprint [to feed whatever mealies might be in there!  Eventually, I will have to sift the Waste Bin and compost it/or use in flower pots.  I removed lots of smaller larvae that had fallen into the Frass Tray while I was sorting.  They went in #3 Larvae Drawer.

March 16, 2016:
Below is a picture of my first generation beetle!  I raised her/him from purchased larvae, which arrived on Nov. 7, 2015.  This time frame [4.5 months] is exactly the time frame I was expecting, as I hoped to be feeding mealies to my chickens by mid-March.  Right on schedule!  I have 29 pupae now from the Breeder Bin, and counting, so, my future Mealworm Farm prospects are good!
March 22, 2016:
I combined LD 1 and 2, and started N/LD 6 using cornmeal instead of old fashioned oats. 

April 10, 2016:

496 beetles of 867 pupae, and counting!  I combined FTD 3 and FD 4 since #3 has mature worms and some pupae, and #4 population was dwindling as I was feeding.  The Frass Tray lines the empty drawer below the mesh-bottomed FB 3-4 drawer until such time as I need the drawer for a new nursery.

April 16, 2016:  I sold about 325 mature mealworm larvae locally.  This was the first sale!

April 24, 2016:
N/LD 7 was placed under the beetle bin.  854 beetles from 940 pupae and counting.

May 23, 2016:

N/LD 8 was placed under the beetle bin.  1005 beetles, 1070 pupae.  LD 1-2 is now being sold or fed.  I have sorted out 6 lots of 250 to sell, currently in the fridge in stasis, and I fed the 14 "chicks" a good snack of them today.  Because LD 1/2 are mature, and pupating, I will be feeding out a good many of them over the next two weeks.

June 10, 2016:
I have emptied all drawers except LD 5-7 and NLD 8.  From LD 1-2, I sorted and sold 2000 larvae, and 250 will be fed to my girls.  Now I have an empty drawer for the next nursery.

June 14, 2016:

Not only did I begin N/LD 9, but I changed the mesh in the Beetle Drawer from a metal screen-door type mesh (as described Nov. 6, 2015) to a plastic canvas.  The reason for the switch was due to the amount of larvae of various sizes from small to large in the Beetle Drawer, evidently who had gotten too large to bore through the metal screen and fall in the nursery drawer below. The holes in the black plastic are significantly larger, but, not large enough for the beetles to go through.  
July 5, 2016:
Began a new Nursery/Larvae Drawer [N/LD 10] today.  Since 6/17, I have added approx. 585 new beetles to the one colony.  I do not track how many beetles have aged out (died), so, I do not know how many are in the Beetle Drawer.  I do have a sufficient number of larvae to grow out, so, I must be doing something right!

July 11, 2016:
In anticipation of a sale tomorrow, I sifted LD 6, but, found there were not enough mature worms in the drawer for the amount I needed, so, I also sifted LD 7.  The smallest worms went through the sift, then, the substrate/frass and worms were returned to their specific drawers.  Since I was selling to someone who wanted to start a mealworm farm, the size difference was not so important as the total weight.  The customer will have closer to 3000 worms than 2500 in this case.  I anticipate combining LD 6 and 7 on July 19, when I will need an extra drawer!  The lack of enough mature worms in LD 6 was likely due to letting my beetle colony get too old.  I learned that beetles only produce eggs about 2 months although they may live 4-5 months!

July 21, 2016:
I sifted layer/grower crumble, microwaved for 3 minutes, stirring at 1 minute intervals, cooled, and added to beetle and larvae drawers.  I combined LD 6 with LD 7, which contained like-size larvae due to sifting on 7/7 (to sell 2500 by weight).  Prepared drawer for nursery by adding frozen cornmeal (room temperature), sifted crumble and carrots and shifted slots in the farm as needed.

July 29, 2016:
Since July 9, I have added 93 beetles.  

August 30, 2016:
I'm 2.5 weeks behind in beginning L/D 12!  I don't like to have that wide age range in one drawer, like L/D 11, due to the size differences at maturity.  I have had a drawer cover 6 weeks; to solve the problem of different sizes in one drawer, I put the contents through a screen that separates the smallest from the most mature.  So, yesterday, I screened LD 6/7 and 8, selling or refrigerating the mature larvae, and holding some for beetles.   

August 31, 2016:
I took the drawer units outside (the frame and empty drawers) to wash and air dry.  I'm having a grain mite issue, so, did research on how to get rid of them.  The first thing I did was assure plenty of ventilation and no moisture in the drawers, removing the moisture source for 48 hour won't hurt the larvae.   Though the mites don't seem to be in the Beetle Drawer, I transferred the beetles (approx. 300) and replaced the old oat substrate with new.  I put these used oats in a Grow Out Container to save any eggs or tiny mealies, which may be in this substrate.  I wiped away the Vaseline line of any messy drawers, reapplied Vaseline, and returned the drawers to the unit.  Some people say, throw out the entire farm and start again, when dealing with mites, but, there are a few things to try before that is necessary!

September 1-19, 2016:
125 new beetles were added to the beetle population with pupae still to morph.

September 20, 2016:
Begin N/LD 13.  Put cornmeal in the oven for 1 hour at 200 degrees to use in the new nursery drawer.  I trimmed a Frass Tray (clear, plastic lid) to insert in the interior of the screen mesh drawer; it actually sits on the top edge of the drawer.  This will do to catch eggs and tiny mealies until LD 9 is available.  Grain Mite Control:  Since Aug. 31, I have put 3 oz. cups of water in the larvae drawers to attract mites; they crawl in and drown!  I empty and clean these every few days. Dry dog food soaked in coconut oil was also placed in short 5 oz. plastic cups, one per drawer. I burrow the carrots under the substrate immediately so mites won't collect on them, at least, not in plain sight!  Mealie population seems not effected by grain mites.  It probably bothers me more than them!]

September 29, 2016:
Received order of 300 pupae and 300 mealworms.  Several beetles in with the pupae and several pupae in with the mealworms as happened during transit.  I will keep a total of how many mealworms turn to pupae and how many pupae become beetles.  

October 10, 2016:
From 9/29 order:  [355 beetles, possibly +104 additionally?]

October 14, 2016:
Still battling grain mites.  The drawer with the oldest larvae (LD 9) seem to have little or no mite activity at this time.  Last night, I put a two inch line of petroleum jelly about two inches above the substrate level.  A few days prior, I added another 1/3 c. dry puppy food, which was coated with coconut oil, to the top of the substrate.  The oil does not hurt the mealworms as far as I can tell, even though the cornmeal bedding does get oily.  Tonight, I read online to put the drawer (unit?) in the bathtub with 2" water.  Apparently, the mites are drawn to the moisture, and, I know they drown (as I have experienced with putting 3 oz. plastic cups of water in the larvae drawers for this purpose).  So, in the tub of water went one 3 drawer unit and one drawer.  Results pending!  [See page, Grain Mite Battle]

October 18, 2016:
I began a new nursery larvae drawer, #14.  I put LD 9 in the wire mesh sifting drawer over a storage container.  A large percentage of smaller larvae fell through this mesh into the container below.  Those, who did not fall through, were put in another container of mostly high protein dry dog food to mature for selling (and to pupate). 

October 23, 2016
The wire mesh drawer has been changed to a plastic canvas bottom.
These larger holes will promote better separation of sizes.
I refer to this drawer as the Sort/Sift Drawer.

Nov. 14, 2016:
I began N/LD 15 with new substrate and 2" line of petroleum jelly about 1" above the substrate and also 1 inch around the top of the drawer, inside and out.  I moved the Beetle Drawer and N/LD 15 from the laundry room into a new unit in the master hallway.  I hope to end my grain mite battle by starting fresh.  However, time will tell...if grain mites are in the Beetle Drawer the nursery drawer will be contaminated.

Nov. 28, 2016:
I put the remaining #9 from 10/18 sift, as well as LD #10, in the Sort/Sift Drawer.  All the largest larvae were put in a clean drawer on ground oats and whatever dog food remained in the drawers and labeled #10 Mature (to pupate or sell).  Any larvae falling through the plastic canvas were put in a clean drawer labeled #10 Immature to grow out. As I have prepared these new drawers, I used olive oil instead of petroleum jelly about 1" above the substrate, a 3 to 4 inch band around the drawer as a mite control /eradicate measure.  The oil is much easier to wash away than petroleum jelly when the drawer is emptied!

December 14, 2016:
First thing this morning, I got out the sterile cornmeal in the freezer to unthaw to room temperature to use in the new Nursery/Larvae Drawer, N/LD 16.  After the cornmeal warmed up, I put it evenly in the drawer.  Then, a 4" wide band of vegetable oil was placed 1 inch above the substrate level.  This is a mite control / eradicate measure.  The Beetle Drawer unit is still quarantined in the master hallway.  A 3 oz. cup of water was placed in the previous drawer from under the beetles, LD 15, to check it for grain mites. Fingers crossed!

December 28, 2016:
This is my last entry for 2016.  I had my first beetles on Nov. 22, 2015, and the mealworm farm has been a good experience overall:  I have raised 16 drawers of larvae, won the grain mite battle, made improvements of plastic canvas bottoms in the Beetle Drawer and a Sift/Sort Drawer, and expanded from 3 to 9 drawers.  

Here are my latest production numbers:
Beetles added from Nov. 29-Dec.30, 2016:  575
In order to prevent a lull in larvae production, young beetles must be added to the beetle colony periodically.


NUMBER OF DRAWERS IN 2016- 13  [Total number of drawers, 2015-2016 - 16]

MEALWORM FARM JOURNAL, Part 3
My personal notes!
January 10, 2017
I began N/LD 17.  After sifting LD 11, I combined the mature larvae with LD 10 Immature from 11/28/16, which has similar size larvae.  LD 11 Immature was placed back in the system.  LD 12-13 were combined.  All the drawers from 10-14 seem to have been most effected by grain mites, from outbreak through eradication. Perhaps cooler temperatures have slowed growth, as well.  Hopefully, moving the quarantined beetles and their unit back to the laundry room will see better numbers in LD 15-16.  This is the first time I have felt discouraged with my farm's productivity.

January 24, 2017:
I baked wheat bran to use in the next larvae drawer instead of plain, yellow corn meal.  I have created a new blog page, Wheat Bran Bedding for Mealworms, which will contain more detail of this process.  I have also added more information to the page, Grain Mite Battle. "Knowledge is power" according to Francis Bacon, but, in my opinion, one must apply knowledge, as Maya Angelou said, “I did then what I knew how to do. Now that I know better, I do better."
Wheat bran will be used as substrate instead of plain, yellow cornmeal.
January 25, 2017:
With several larvae drawers at various stages of growth, I used the Sort and Sift Drawer to separate the most mature to sell [250 are held for pupating for breeder beetles.]  Then, the kitchen strainer was used to separate fine cornmeal and tiny larvae to a drawer labelled "Fine Sift 1/25".  Approximately 3 cups of wheat bran was mixed in the Fine Sift drawer. Any larvae which did not pass through the kitchen strainer was put in a drawer of wheat bran labelled "Coarse Sift 1/25".  A new Nursery/Larvae Drawer was prepared with wheat bran and put under the Beetle Drawer.  N/LD 18 is the first nursery drawer to contain wheat bran.  N/LD 17 was under the beetles 14.5 days.  

February 1, 2017:
Here are my latest production numbers:  Beetles added to farm in January - 242

February 4, 2017:
The larvae drawer with the wheat bran, Coarse Sift 1/25/16, is covered with exoskeletons!  I used a crevice tool attachment with my vacuum to remove them, holding the suction end about 1.5 inches above the substrate.  This did  he job nicely!  I have never had to do this before, so, making the switch to wheat bran with this result must mean the rapid growth I was hoping for is happening before my very eyes!

February 15, 2017:
With a kitchen strainer, I sifted the drawer, "Fine Sift" {from N/LD 11-13, July 22-Oct. 18}, putting the contents into LD 14.  The empty drawer was cleaned.  Wheat bran was baked in anticipation of 2000 mealworm larvae order arriving in a few days.

February 20-21, 2017:
Began N/LD 19.  Sifted the drawer marked "Coarse Sift" {from 1/25/17} and put the larvae in a holding bin to sort into 250 count bait cups for sell, holding 250 to pupate.

February 28, 2017:
Here are my latest production numbers:
Beetles added to mealworm farm in February:  665

March 8, 2017:
Began N/LD 20.  Sifted LD 14 from cornmeal to wheat bran.  Frass was put in holding bag with carrots for tiniest of mealies to develop.  Spent veggies were disposed of.

March 10, 2017:
The 2/15 order, which was anticipated, arrived.  The larvae from this order have been pupating like crazy!  I have over 600 pupae waiting to morph, and hundreds of beetles added to the Beetle Drawer before today.  Since overcrowding of beetles may lead to less production, I made a Beetle Bin, which is a 10" x 15" plastic, lidded container, previously used for larvae, adding wheat bran, a few cardboard rolls and carrots.  I anticipate this will relieve crowding in the Beetle Drawer b/c, though deaths, the number should reduce in the drawer the next four weeks, which, is the time I plan to add to the Beetle Bin. 
[Beetles added to the Beetle Drawer since March 1= 446]

April 1-4, 2017:
Beetle Bin 1 has 1106 beetles added since March 10.  I began Beetle Bin 2 on March 23; it currently has 604 beetles.  I added 183 beetles to the Beetle Drawer on March 30.  I began N/LD 21.  I am now out of containers and drawers until I sift LD 15.

April 12, 2017:
Farm maintenance and organization needed!  I sifted LD 14 and 15 into different sizes, using wheat bran as the new substrate.  I now have divisions to sell, pupate and grow-out. Frass has been sifted with a kitchen strainer and set aside with carrots for any more tinies that may grow before re-sifting again before disposal.  

April 21, 2017:
Beetles were removed from Beetle Bin 1 and placed in Beetle Bin 2.  Transferring tubes first, hand picking, and lure/transfer from a piece of bread, were the methods for removing beetles.  Beetle Bin 1 is now BB1/LD 22; I see tiny mealies already!  Record time?

May 1, 2017:
Production Numbers - Added 621 Beetles to the Beetle Drawer in April.

May 2-4, 2017:
Removing beetles from Beetle Bin 2 and placing in Beetle Bin 3 (a drawer), and sifted larvae from grow out container and LD 16 using a kitchen strainer then Sift/Sort Drawer. LD 16 Immature is now in a grow out container, while the mature larvae are placed in dog food and moisture for my form of gut-loading to sell.  Wheat bran is baking for the next drawer.

May 31, 2017:
Long day of sifting drawers and bins, Immature 16, LD17-19, and 22-23.  Began N/LD 26, BBA with new beetles, BB4/LD 28 with old beetles, and containers of immature and mature mealworms for grow-out and pupating.  The mature larvae are gut-loading to sell.  I used three, 9x13 cake pans full of wheat bran today!

May Production Numbers:  (?)  Noted "to 469 - 5/31"  Likely Beetle Drawer, 469

June Production Numbers:  Beetle Bin A1, 1210; Beetle Drawer, 689

June 22-30, 2017:
Sift and Sort on LD 21-23, selling or feeding the mature larvae and holding the immature to grow out.  

July 8, 2017:

A busy June and time to catch up the blog!  My task today was to sift and sort many drawers to divide and combine, as working with 9 drawers and two bins  doesn't leave much room to grow.  The mature larvae are gut-loading to sell, pupate or feed while micro size larvae from fine frass was topped with wheat bran to create BB5 of old beetles, 4 months old.  Surprised BB4 seemed to have so many tiny larvae, and this has me rethink what I have ready about old beetles not laying eggs!

July 13, 2017:
Time to sell some large larvae.   2000 sold and the rest fed to the 16 girls! 

July 17, 2017:

Purchased these little drawers for my Pupae Hotel.
With a dry erase marker, I write the date on the front of the drawer,
so I will know which drawer is most likely to contain beetles to pull.
July 21, 2017:
I've gone and done it!  I bought another 3 drawer unit!  I did a sift/sort in order to sell 2000 larvae today.  This left me with 3 batches of various sizes, which, I wanted to put in different drawers.  After putting in new wheat bran, then the larvae, I put a line of oil around the top 4" of each drawer on the inside, I have one empty drawer and the Sift and Sort Drawer, which is capable of holding larvae in a container on top of the mesh if needed.  
Current set-up.
August 4, 2017:  
The move to The Worman Cave is almost complete.  On this blog, see related posts, The Worman Cave, for pictures and details, and, the page, Superworm Farm, a journal as the adventure begins and ongoing details and progress.

In preparing drawer units for the move and it being time to add another nursery/larvae drawer under the beetles, a sift and sort was done.  Fresh wheat bran was added to any bin that showed a need, as well as a carrot or potato.  I was happy to put all remaining beetles from Beetle Bin 5 into the Beetle Drawer, reducing the beetle colonies from 3 to to.  Moving the second colony of beetles into a new container is not a fun job, but tiny larvae are visible to the naked eye!

July Production Number:  1260 Beetles added.

August 6-26, 2017:
I began a new beetle drawer, BBB1, and have a running tally of newly morphed beetles being added to this drawer of skimpy old fashioned oats (baked) and carrot slivers.  I will add wheat bran when I have time to sterilize it (August 7).  BBC1 began on Aug. 21 and BBD1 (from mesh drawer clean-out) began on Aug. 26.  [Oats from mesh drawer clean-out have been placed in a covered, aluminum casserole pan with a potato half, to see if eggs hatch!]

August 30, 2017:
In The Worman Cave, a little more elbow room was needed after I knocked fresh pupae and beetles off the work table.  I used scrap 2x4s to make these shelves for the Pupae Hotels.  Those open studs came in very handy for this inset storage.

August Production Number:  1644 Beetles added.

September 9, 2017:
Combined Beetle BBA3 and BBB1 from LD 33 and 34) into BBAB1/LD37.  Also, did a big sort and sift day with these results:
Results of big sift and sort day:  5 drawers of larvvae, 3/4" to 1" long!
1 drawer to breed, 4 drawers to sell, and 1 drawer (not shown) to grow out!
September-October:  A busy time with the theater, I lost track of the numbers.  I'll do better in November since the work is over and the show is in it's last week!

November 2, 2017:  An updated view of the Worman Room!

  


November-December:
I am behind in my updates to this blog.  Obviously!  I am currently (as of Dec. 13) on LD 51, which, at this time, is beetles.  I have 5 or 6 mealworm beetle colonies right now.  With the addition of the superworms, I have added one more 3 drawer unit on the work shelf, which is now maximum capacity inside the closet.  My husband fears I am about to spill over into the basement, and he is closer to correct than he knows!

January, 2018:  Conclusion of this blog page.  I am growing my sells business and maintaining Facebook pages and groups.  Please see the page on this blog, Worm Orders via Facebook, http://chick-a-doodles.blogspot.com/2017/07/facebook-page-sales-and-orders.html

Currently, Jan. 12, 2018, The Worman Cave has 37 drawers and storage containers, 44 tiny to large drawers dedicated to pupae, plus a number of larger totes and containers to be utilized in the warmer months in the main basement or outdoor shed.

Any superworm activity will be detailed on the page, The Superworm Farm.




This list was compiled from a survey of current mealworm farmers, the negatives or "cons" to consider before starting a mealworm farm.

1. Finances. Some cost to start and/or maintain a mealworm farm is expected, but, there may be unexpected cost, such as supplemental heat. Produce, in some countries who import, can be expensive or certain grains may be unavailable or costly.
2. Dust from substrate and waste can cause asthma-like symptoms /allergic reactions. (A mask may or may not help.)
3. Beetle pheromones smell. Depending on your sensitivity, this odor may be mild, unnoticeable, or strong and repulsive. Dead beetles stink, period!
4. Patience is required. You can rush the life cycle by taking additional steps that require more resources, such as temperature control, high protein, etc. Or, you can sit back and wait. Some sellers complain they cannot meet demand for the slow process.
5. Make time for the job. A few minutes or a few hours, depends on your goals and need, or your personality, and can be time-consuming.
6. Commitment. You must provide basic necessities on a regular basis. And, like any pet or livestock, you must prepare in advance for any extended periods away.
7. Pests and pet control. Grain mites and moths, ants, spiders, rodents. Also, cats may use the set-up as a litter box!
8. Humidity/Mold. High humidity causes mold. Too little humidity causes deformities of beetle or pupae death. Proper ventilation and observation of humidity sources are necessary for best production.
9. Ongoing or additional cleanup. Prepare for more vacuuming, especially if you can't overlook "crumbs". If you sift the frass, move the beetles, add substrate or start new bin, sort larvae to feed or sell, there is going to be some mess to clean up.
10. Space. A tiny corner is often valuable real estate, let alone a dedicated space for a larger set-up Whether a closet or room in the house, a camper, a corner of the garage, shed or basement (which has its own problem), finding the right location for the mealworm farm can be a challenge. (Multiple bins, drawers or containers may be needed, especially if you want to separate the stages and control what degree of mixed growth you want per lot.)
11. Disagreement with the spouse as to having or jealousy of time spent with mealworm farm. Not every spouse, significant other, or even visitors, will be excited and passionate about your bugs!
12. General dislike or negative thoughts of having insects / bugs in the house. [Emotional factor: Some people may also feel sorry for the larvae, especially when it comes time to feed them.]
13. Human consumption down-side: "They taste a bit nutty, but bland. To make them more appetizing you need to flavor them up with garlic, chili or flavored oils."




9 comments:

  1. (Having trouble posting so trying again. Can email me at dirtchildmountaingirl on gmail if you'd like)
    I'm really glad I've stumbled upon your blog! I'm really enjoying it and have read this whole page. I think it's neat that you've made journal entries for so long and that you are so detailed. I have quite a few questions that I hope you won't mind taking the time to answer. I am wanting to start a mealworm farm, but nervous about it and not sure how complicated it will be since most people I've seen post online show that they have lots of drawers or tubs/buckets. I don't know how I'd make that work with the small amount of space I have available to me.

    My questions:
    ~ Can you please explain the difference between the LD and NLD and N/LD?

    ~ Can you please explain what you meant on July 11, 2016 when you said "The lack of enough mature worms in LD 6 was likely due to letting my beetle colony get too old. I learned that beetles only produce eggs about 2 months although they may live 4-5 months!" I'm not understanding why the beetles getting past two months of age would effect the number of mature mealworms you had. Maybe I'm misreading?

    ~ Why do you have so many drawers for the larvae? You mention having at least 31 larvae drawers or nursery larvae drawers (not sure what the difference is). That seems like a LOT of drawers. Can you explain a little more of how/what all these drawers are being used for? Would appreciate if you could consider including pictures in some entries to give a bit more of a visual approach.

    ~ What is the "grow out container"? How is it different from the nursery (which I guess is where the eggs are dropped from the beetles)?

    ~ How do you gut-load and what's the purpose? Are the mealworms not nutritious enough just on their own from the wheat bran and carrots?

    ReplyDelete
  2. Here are the answers to your questions. I have copied and pasted them in order, and have answered each one following your question:

    ~ Can you please explain the difference between the LD and NLD and N/LD?
    LD is abbreviation for Larvae. NLD and N/LD are abbreviation for Nursery/Larvae Drawer. Most likely the slash (/) was just omitted on the blog entry, but, it means exactly the same thing! The Nursery Larvae Drawer is the drawer directly under the mesh-bottomed Beetle Drawer. When it leaves this position, it is no longer the nursery, so, it is just a Larvae Drawer. The nursery, as you may know, holds the new hatchlings and it may also contain eggs.

    ~ Can you please explain what you meant on July 11, 2016 when you said "The lack of enough mature worms in LD 6 was likely due to letting my beetle colony get too old. I learned that beetles only produce eggs about 2 months although they may live 4-5 months!" I'm not understanding why the beetles getting past two months of age would effect the number of mature mealworms you had. Maybe I'm misreading?
    Beetles are most productive in the first 2-3 months of life. Although they may live 5-6 months, this does not mean they are producing a large number of eggs. Therefore, production numbers in LD 6, I concluded, was low due to the beetles being past prime. At that time, one year ago, I thought beetles only lived 4-5 months, but, I have since learned they can live 5-6 months and they are most productive the first 2-3 months of life.

    ~ Why do you have so many drawers for the larvae? You mention having at least 31 larvae drawers or nursery larvae drawers (not sure what the difference is). That seems like a LOT of drawers. Can you explain a little more of how/what all these drawers are being used for? Would appreciate if you could consider including pictures in some entries to give a bit more of a visual approach.
    Wow, you really did read thoroughly through the end! Most of the notes past the first year are mostly for my benefit, as a journal. But, I am glad you have asked these very good questions! Since I began raising mealworms, I have had a total of 31 drawers of larvae. But, as the larvae mature, they are sold locally, used to feed my chickens, and a certain amount allowed to pupate into beetles for breeding. When this happens, that drawer is empty of larvae, then cleaned and returned to the unit in its new position under the Beetle Drawer. 31 reflects the number of drawers of larvae produced since starting my mealworm farm. In actuality, I currently have 9 drawers, two bins, and a container(s) of pupae.

    ~ What is the "grow out container"? How is it different from the nursery (which I guess is where the eggs are dropped from the beetles)?
    A grow out container is where medium larvae are contained until they grow into large. Or, where immature larvae sized small-medium are held until they grow larger. The nursery is the drawer under the beetles.

    ~ How do you gut-load and what's the purpose? Are the mealworms not nutritious enough just on their own from the wheat bran and carrots? Gut-loading may or may not change nutrition. I haven’t done any studies or reading on that to answer scientifically. Some people indeed like to feed them differently during that period for nutrition’s sake, and some are simply hydrating them for shipping or stasis. For me, I have simply sifted large, mature larvae and are holding them in dry dog food (21% protein) until I arrange deliveries of local sells. The dog food is easy to pick out of the container of larvae, and the oil in the dog food gives the mealworms a nice sheen!

    I hope I have answered your questions in an understandable way. I am happy to answer anymore questions you may have.

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  3. Thank you for your attention to detail and your clear exposition of your process. This is by far the most comprehensive think that I have read. Did you know? Mealworms eat styrofoam. No, it is not nutritious for them, but they can break it down (saw it as experimental grant at UC Davis) and produce frass with all of its benefits. My most important takeaway.....the sifting process's contribution to deformed beatles. This is the only place that I've seen the attribution of the cause (v. seeing the symptoms written about). Thank you so much for your diligence here.

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    1. Yes, but, if memory is correct, .5% of styrofoam remains inside the mealworm, so, that would rule it out as a feeder. If someone was only harvesting frass, or using it to breakdown styrofoam in a landfill, then it would not matter, except to the wild birds and animals that might inject them in a landfill setting!

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    2. I'm not sure what context I used about sifting contributing to beetle deformities, but, I can say I have learned a lot more about that since I wrote this journal! Beetles are more likely deformed because of habitat factors of the larvae prior to pupating, such as lack of nutrition, dehydration, cannibalism, and overcrowding. If you are interested in learning more about mealworms or superworms, please join my Facebook group, www.facebook.com/groups/chickadoodlestn and read the group file, Mealworms and Superworms for the Beginner, which is a cumulative document I wrote. Thank you for the nice compliment about this blog page!

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  4. P. S. I also saw another using "Water Crystals" as a source of hydration for the beatles. It has many advantages. (Can you tell that I'm compiling best practices?)

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    1. Yes, I have heard of this, but, many people use parings from whatever fresh, raw vegetable they are using. Others make their own gel cubes, though, I have not tried personally!

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  5. All i can say is WHAOO, what an fantastic article, after i read your article i have a lot of respect for you, for any person who can make a study like you must take many many hours, well done you make it a lot easier for people like us who have no knowledge of this topic.

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    1. Thank you. I am a little too detailed on the details, at times, I fear! I have not maintained this page, because it is redundant to repeat the same process, as far as breeding bins go. Once you get a very little bit of experience, it is mostly the same task over and over again in a timely manner!

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Your positive feedback, comments or questions appreciated.