Four tractors we have built and used are detailed below: Tractor with Nest Buckets, Monster Tractor, Suite [Small Tractor], and A-Frame Tractor.
TRACTOR WITH NEST BUCKETS
October, 2015: Our first tractor build was based on online research with a hoop design. This Tractor can hold 6 standard hens comfortably. For us, this was 3 White Leghorns and 3 Rhode Island Reds!
A view of the inside (above) of the tractor, with nest buckets, roost and roost ladder visible. The dark half of the bottom of the bucket is the wood of the egg doors. The bottom of the bucket was cut out, leaving half of the bottom intact. The factory open end of the bucket is toward the inside for hen entrance. A 1" x 2" perch bar goes across the front of the buckets for easier access by the hens from the roost. Two nest buckets are sufficient for 6 layers, and they often use only one! The roost bar is 2" x 2". I sanded the top and side edges of the roost bar.
Here is the view of the outside of the tractor - a good look at the closed egg door. The access door to the tractor is below the egg door. I'm petite and agile so getting inside the tractor if need be is do-able. [See below for view of outside with electric fence attached.] I use a small, kid-sized rake to retrieve the occasional egg on the ground, whether laid there or knocked out of the bucket.
Here is a side view of the tractor. The tarp is 6x8 feet, which doesn't quiet cover the entire length, but, the egg buckets give cover from inclement weather. [See later photos below for wheels.]
The egg door is open here. I use "putting green" outdoor carpet as my nesting material.
Wood 2x2 post were put on each corner at an angle, to hold the feed pans. This wood rail keeps the feed pan from rolling into the middle of the tractor! Electric wood post insulators and 4 strands of wire protect my girls from predators, especially stray dogs. [Update: One year+ later, perfect safety record!]
Notice in the picture above, to get a good lift on the non-wheel end, there are screen-door type handles on the frame just above the access door/under the egg door.
Notice in the picture above, to get a good lift on the non-wheel end, there are screen-door type handles on the frame just above the access door/under the egg door.
I was proud of the "gate" I made for the electric fence, as I would need to daily open and close the access door to put in food and water. [Visible here on the right.] It is made of PVC pipe, probably 3/4 inch, with holes drilled out to accommodate the electric wire. The holes are at the point of the insulators, so they can attach over/under the insulators.
Here is a better view of the gate, wheel, and grit cup. The wheels are from a scrap lawnmower's adjustable wheel assembly.. It is attached to the frame by a 2x4 screwed into the bottom frame of the tractor. Due to the electric fence, I couldn't attach it the way I had first designed, SO, it only rolls good in one direction. But, the wheels retract and engage just fine otherwise, and it is easy to move on level ground. [I later removed the grit cup and instead mix crushed egg shells in the feed daily.]
WIND: The wood frame, hoop tractors are pretty heavy, low to the ground and the rounded shape makes it aerodynamic. But, just in case of exceptional strong, straight line winds or gusts, I stake it when the weather report makes me feel anxious. There has never been any indication these stakes were tried and I have yet to have an issues with the 3 tarp-covered, hoop tractors I have getting kite-like movement.
WIND: The wood frame, hoop tractors are pretty heavy, low to the ground and the rounded shape makes it aerodynamic. But, just in case of exceptional strong, straight line winds or gusts, I stake it when the weather report makes me feel anxious. There has never been any indication these stakes were tried and I have yet to have an issues with the 3 tarp-covered, hoop tractors I have getting kite-like movement.
WINTERIZING: I covered the first tarp with a second, larger tarp, which fully covers the entire hoop. Clear plastic sheathing covers one end completely except for a ventilation slot, leaving the other end uncovered, except for the door in order to protect the waterer from wind. [Open Air Coops, the 3-sided shed concept, works in climates much colder than TN.]
Since an accumulating snow was predicted, I covered an area of ground with a bed sheet the width and length of the tractor at the next spot the tractor was to move. This worked great, and I was able to roll the sheet up to reveal a nice plot of bluegrass under 8" of snow!
In this photo, in the lower left corner, is the spot of ground that was uncovered, to which I moved the chicken tractor later that day. The snow was beginning to melt, so, two of my grand-boys helped me build this snow hen!
Tucker made it 8 seconds!
Snow hen, 2016
I sprinkle orchard grass seed on the spent ground after the chickens have cleared and fertilized it. I use a spice bottle; the holes allow just enough seeds out. This pasture has been over-run with weeds, so, the chickens are improving the land as they go. [Another good excuse to keep chickens!] When I move the chickens, any undesirable, inedible weeds are clearly visible, and are removed with a shovel, if I am in the mood!
May 1, 2016: With six 10 week old Black Australorps in the smaller hoop tractor, aka Chicken Suite, we put together a make-shift, moveable run to be used until the group is downsized, that is, cockerels sorted from pullets. This run is 4Wx8Lx4+H feet. In theory, the framed end is to be pushed against the access door end of the tractor with the door of the tractor opening into the run, thus providing greater foraging area.
Purchased for this project: The 3 base frame 2x4x8s, zip ties and tarp. Leftover from other projects: 2x2 used as door frame, electric post pieces, electric wire, poultry netting and the white metal posts (from a swimming pool frame). The wheels were free.
(Below, left) A small hole was drilled in the "step in" part of the post to accommodate the wire, giving the run another line of security against our main daytime predator, wandering and/or stray dogs! (Below, right) The plastic bottom of the white metal posts attached to the base frame using a wood screw and washer.
After a brief shower, it was determined the roof need to be arched to help shed rain off the tarp, I arched the middle using a pool noodle. First, a 6" length of scrap plastic pipe was inserted intro each end of noodle. These pipes gave needed length to the noodle, plus, made an end to hold inside the hollow, metal posts.
The 11-week old Black Australorps are curious about the residents next to them in Chicken Tractor 1, 8 sex-link pullets. The commotion helped them to venture out of the small 1/2 tractor into the run.
May 22, 2016
Black Australorp cockerels need a bachelor pad, so work began on coverting the Redneck Chicken Run into an A-Frame Chicken Tractor.
Utilizing the elements which were already in place, such as the base frame, chicken wire, electric posts and electric wiring was a little better than starting from scratch. The door frame had to be resized to fit the smaller opening.
Purchased for this phase:
2 - 8 ft. cattle panels, 2 electric fiberglass posts, 1 pressure treated 2 x 4 x 8, heavy duty tarp 6 x 8, welded wire 2 x 3, 1 pkg. zip ties, 1 box saber screws
Used or items on hand:
2 hinges, 1 hasp clasp, 1 eye screw, 1 hook, small staples, 1.5" fence staples, electric fence wire, poultry fence
The roost bar was installed and a feed pan holder, as well as a hook to hang the waterer. The poultry wire on the A-frame ends were secured, and the access door and hasp clasp were screwed in place.
All the poultry and welded wire fence was secured and the A-frame was covered with a tarp. The wheels were put back on and a temporary nylon rope was used to pull it around the pasture when needed. Two electric posts were installed on the access door side, and a "gate.
The two BA pullets went into the suite with a barred Plymouth Rock. Unfortunately, we had lost one of the barreds to illness earlier in the spring.
I sold the last of the roosters, then, made a deal for 14 week old pullets. Seems the A-frame is just right for Black Australorps!
Employing several ways to keep water and chickens cool besides the shade.
See the post, Beating Summer Heat.
As always, the chicken tractors are attached to a mainline electric wire. Each tractor and run are individually secured with at least 3 strands of electric on all four sides.
A do-it-yourself, cookie tin heater has been the perfect day-time solution to frozen water!
Not my photo,, but, mine is made the same way!
January 24, 2016
Tucker made it 8 seconds!
Snow hen, 2016 |
March, 2016: Running the electric fence on some new ground for the chicken tractors. The tractor goes up one side of the fence, down the other, move fence, repeat! Chickens make pretty good lawn mowers!
|
May 3, 2016: I power washed the inside of Chicken Tractor 1 for the new residents: Five Black Star and three Red Star pullets. A new tarp was needed, affixed with zip ties. [One Red Star pullet was sold a few weeks later.] After the poultry net was repaired, feed pan holders were installed across the corners of Tractor 1 (just like in the Monster Chicken Tractor). A second set of wheels made pulling the tractor into the pasture much easier. [See related page, Dust Bath] The Dust Bath container filled with wood ash and play sand was secured inside. Ready for the residents, 9 week old Black and Red sex-link pullets! (I am standing in front of the tractor, and to the right is the Redneck Chicken Run, and extension of the Suite!) [Update: The Redneck Chicken Run was converted into the A-Frame Tractor.]
 |
| They were delighted to leave the brooder! |
 |
| The sex-links have produced their first eggs. Compared to a normal, large egg, it is half the size or less, yet, pullet eggs are always small at first. |
Brooder information can be found on the pages, Brooder DIY and Crib Brooder.
SUITE [SMALL TRACTOR]
February 27, 2016: We started work on a smaller tractor for two barred Plymouth Rocks. A lower hoop with a wider base will give more square feet of forage area.
Front view frame for access door
Improved features from my first Chicken Tractor design will be the addition of a typical, flip-top nest box. With a partition for a dust bath area in the box, I will not have to move a separate container in and out of the tractor. A floating roost bar and taller access door will allow me more room to change water and feed, and interact with the girls.
Rear view frame for box
We got the nest box with dust bath area built. Learning by experience, through a series of failures to communicate what was needed, the wrong thickness of wood was used, so,1x1 strips trimmed the flip top and inside corners. To help with weather-resistance on the thin wood, coats of spar urethane were brushed and sprayed on.
In the picture above, the inside of the boxes are shown.
This is the outside view of the box.
(1) Finished the wire enclosure; (2) Put the access door on; (3) Electric fence posts installed; (4) Wheels in position and ready for hardware. I was very pleased with how the posts were installed. These are plastic step-in posts, purchased for $1.99 at TSC and shortened by easy cuts with a chop saw. Holes were drilled into the base frame 2x4 at a depth of approx. 2.5 inches, then the posts were pushed firmly in with a few hammer taps as needed.
Galvanized 17 gauge electric fence wire was put around the tractor today. Another step-in post was used for the "gate", which can open and close when use of the access door is needed. The gate post is placed in a hole, which was drilled in the base frame close to the side post on the right side of the view above. A "summer" tarp was trimmed and folded to fit the tractor's hoop for shade and weather protection until winterizing is needed. Currently, bungee cords hold the waterer and feeder. At 5:30 p.m., the suite was moved into a nice patch of bluegrass for Thelma and Louise to get acquainted with their new home. The electric fence was tested and all paths were connected. At 6:30, the sun was down and both the girls were on the roost. Louise gave me an approving cluck or two.
All hooked up, equipped, and ready for the girls!
The access door side of the Chicken Suite.
[The "gate" post is on the right side in this picture - two posts side by side.]
The other chicken tractor is beside the chicken suite. It still has winter tarp down on that side!
The inside of the Chicken Suite.
Here is a clear view of the nest box with golf ball decoys, and the sand/dust bath box.
Enjoying fermented feed mixed with mealworm beetles.
[See page, Mealworm Farm for more on that project!]
9 week old Black Australorps occupy the Suite
transitioning from the Crib Brooder.
MONSTER CHICKEN TRACTOR
Day 1, April 15, 2016: With chicks growing fast, another tractor [#3] is needed. This "monster" enjoys the width of the Chicken Suite for larger foraging area, but is double the size of the suite, being made with two cattle panels instead of one.
 |
| Base frame with 8' cattle panel covered with poultry hex. The center support could be eliminated. |
Day 2, April 18, 2016
Below is one of the added features of this tractor, feed pan holders. I serve fermented feed daily in round, rubber pans, which, I find overturned often, and rolled half-way through the tractor making retrieval a pain! Now the girls will just" belly up to the bar" come breakfast time!
 |
| The corner pieces hold the feed pans and also give extra strength to the frame.. |
Like the Chicken Suite, the divided, lidded box is a nice feature and functional. [The picture below lacks the roof's rain guard, and a few other touches.]
 |
| The nest-box section, wheels, and electric fence posts. |
Again, like the Chicken Suite, I found the "floating roost" was a winner idea. It allows for a larger access door (see next photo), and provides an open space for waterer and feeder. And, the occasional grabbing of chicken livestock!
 |
| Sand box (left), communal nest box (right), and roost bar. |
The rain guard was installed on the nest box roof. [The guard is a rubber baseboard with silicone caulk on the edge, which is screwed to the frame at the lid's hinges.] Touch-up paint was completed on the next/sand box, inside and out. Work progressed on the end section's wire covering.
 |
| Ready for the tarp! |
There are four fixed wheels on this tractor because it is heavy! We were blessed when a friend gave us several sets of used lawnmower wheels.
 |
| Communal nest and dust box. |
The larger nest box has a bedding of green indoor-outdoor carpet. I also use this in the nest buckets the girls are accustomed to now. And, I am sure they will love the sand box area. It is caulked to prevent sand from leaking out and has a nice 4" lip. A sand box keeps the girls from tearing up the pasture every day for that purpose; and the sand stays nice and dry inside the box!
Once pulled into the pasture (had to change to bigger wheels, not pictured), it is occupied by our current layers, 3 Rhode Island Reds, 3 White Leghorns.
 |
| A wire cable with a plastic pipe handle facilitates moving and the electric fence is hooked to a mainline through the pasture. |
A-FRAME [FORMERLY RED-NECK RUN]
 |
| The electric fence posts were installed at an angle to ensure clearance from the poultry netting. |
(Below, left) A small hole was drilled in the "step in" part of the post to accommodate the wire, giving the run another line of security against our main daytime predator, wandering and/or stray dogs! (Below, right) The plastic bottom of the white metal posts attached to the base frame using a wood screw and washer.
After a brief shower, it was determined the roof need to be arched to help shed rain off the tarp, I arched the middle using a pool noodle. First, a 6" length of scrap plastic pipe was inserted intro each end of noodle. These pipes gave needed length to the noodle, plus, made an end to hold inside the hollow, metal posts.
 |
| The tarp is on, electric wire installed, now for finishing touches and use! |
May 22, 2016
 |
| Four cockerels to sell. |
Utilizing the elements which were already in place, such as the base frame, chicken wire, electric posts and electric wiring was a little better than starting from scratch. The door frame had to be resized to fit the smaller opening.
Purchased for this phase:
2 - 8 ft. cattle panels, 2 electric fiberglass posts, 1 pressure treated 2 x 4 x 8, heavy duty tarp 6 x 8, welded wire 2 x 3, 1 pkg. zip ties, 1 box saber screws
Used or items on hand:
2 hinges, 1 hasp clasp, 1 eye screw, 1 hook, small staples, 1.5" fence staples, electric fence wire, poultry fence
The roost bar was installed and a feed pan holder, as well as a hook to hang the waterer. The poultry wire on the A-frame ends were secured, and the access door and hasp clasp were screwed in place.
All the poultry and welded wire fence was secured and the A-frame was covered with a tarp. The wheels were put back on and a temporary nylon rope was used to pull it around the pasture when needed. Two electric posts were installed on the access door side, and a "gate.
 |
| Add 3 roosters and call it a day! |
 |
| He is 20 weeks old and enjoying his bachelor pad! |
 |
| Two roosters to sell. |
 |
| The Java Mamas |
In a hurry to add a nest box to the A-frame as cheaply as possible since the pullets have started laying on the ground, I purchased a lidded plastic container. With a sharpie, I marked a 8.5 inch square for the "hen entrance" on the lid, cutting the hole with a jig saw after drilling a pilot hole in the square's corner to fit the blade. An access opening with a hasp latch serves as a way to remove eggs from the nest box. The container is screwed from inside into a simple 2x2 wood frame. Two bungee cords across the top (on each side of the hen entrance) keeps the lid from popping off unexpectedly. Pieces of electric fence post are inserted into holes in the frame, so the electric wire runs across the nest box opening. This type nest box and security will have to do in a pinch.
 |
| I'll use a carabiner, but, wire does okay for now! |
 |
| A nice piece of scrap shelving works good for a roof! |
 |
A line of tractors in the pasture:
|
Redneck Shade / Redneck Canopy
June 11, 2016
As temperatures soar to 96 degrees and feels like 104, chicken tractors on pasture without any shade can be uncomfortable, even deadly to chickens. With an abundance of previously used tarps and tall rebar, this canopy is almost as good as a big shade tree.
On a windy days, these tarps wouldn't fair so well
and would need more than zip ties, bungees, and staked posts to keep them secure.
But, for a calm day and one set of hands, this was an easy set-up!
 |
| The brown flap (right side) will be attached to the rebar at the corners of the silver tarp. [See the photograph below.] The above view shows the step-in posts, which holds the brown tarp away from the tractor's side about one foot for air circulation purposes. This brown side is at least 4 inches off the ground and unsecured to allow any breeze to pass through. |
 |
| Side flap down and five gallon buckets on top of tractor's tarp for air flow and pitch. This will do for today! |
See the post, Beating Summer Heat.
As always, the chicken tractors are attached to a mainline electric wire. Each tractor and run are individually secured with at least 3 strands of electric on all four sides.
See the page, Chicken Tractors, for more information.
No comments:
Post a Comment
Your positive feedback, comments or questions appreciated.